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A baby's skin is far more sensitive than ours, and each season calls for a different fabric. Here's what I recommend for summer and winter.
Softness to the touch is just one factor among many when choosing fabric for baby clothes. Every season calls for something different, and getting the right fabric right makes the difference between a garment that gets worn happily and one that ends up forgotten in a drawer.
For baby clothing, I look at softness, inside seams and how easily layers can be adjusted to the temperature. Composition offers guidance but is not enough to judge how a fabric feels: its thickness, construction and finishes matter too.
When I prepare a garment for a baby, I almost never think about the design first. I think about how that fabric is going to feel against the skin for hours on end, often while the baby sleeps, and that completely changes the order of priorities when choosing materials.
"A baby can't tell you they're hot. The fabric has to tell you for them."
In warmer months, I usually start with lightweight cottons and soft linens. I compare their weight, feel and ease of washing before choosing. A natural fibre alone does not guarantee a cool garment, and a synthetic blend is not always uncomfortable: assess the specific fabric and avoid overdressing.
Linen, in particular, has an advantage that's sometimes overlooked: its fibre structure allows for even greater air circulation than cotton, though as a trade-off it wrinkles very easily and needs a bit more care when washing. For garments worn for many hours, like bodysuits or summer pyjamas, I tend to favour fine combed-cotton knit, which combines breathability with a soft drape and barely any stiff seams.
For newborns, even in winter, I prefer several layers of thin fabric over one very thick single layer. It's much easier to regulate temperature by adding or removing a layer than with a single heavy garment.
Spring and autumn are actually the hardest seasons to dress for: a cold morning can become a warm afternoon without warning. In these months, medium-weight cotton combined in layers works better than a single fabric intended for one temperature. A fine cotton bodysuit beneath a lightweight knitted garment lets you add or remove warmth as the day changes, without changing the baby's whole outfit.
In these seasons I also recommend paying attention to the type of knit, not just the fibre. An interlock knit, for example, has more stability and insulates a little better than a plain jersey, while a light terry fabric, like the one used in many fine sweatshirts, adds a layer of air between the threads that helps retain warmth without adding weight. Combining two or three pieces of different weights gives you much more flexibility throughout the day than searching for the perfect single garment for in-between seasons — an ideal that, in reality, doesn't exist.
Beyond how it feels to the touch, check the composition on the label without assuming that a high natural-fibre content alone prevents irritation. It also helps to run your hand inside the garment to find rough seams or stiff labels that an adult might not notice but that can make all the difference against a baby's skin. If in doubt, I always recommend washing the garment once before first use to soften the fabric and remove any manufacturing residue.
Another detail many families overlook is the finish of inside seams. In the baby garments I make, I aim to use flat or covered seams to avoid ridges rubbing against the skin as the baby moves. The same applies to waist and cuff elastics: an overly tight elastic can leave marks even in soft fabrics, so I prefer soft, covered elastic with a comfortable fit and no loose cords.
For the cold, brushed cotton and small proportions of merino wool offer warmth without sacrificing softness. 100% pure wool can itch even through another garment, so I tend to reserve it for outerwear, not for clothing in direct contact with the skin.
Merino wool differs from conventional wool precisely in the thickness of its fibre: the finer the fibre, the less it itches, and merino is among the finest that occur naturally. Even so, in baby pieces I almost always blend it with cotton, in low proportions, to take advantage of its insulating properties without giving up the softness of cotton against the skin. For outerwear, on the other hand, I do allow myself thicker or more technical fabrics, because there the priority changes: protecting the baby from wind and cold matters more than the exact feel against the skin, since there's always a layer in between that garment and the skin.
If you're thinking about making something for your baby and aren't sure which fabric suits which season, you can contact Atelier Yvicor and I'll advise you.
Which fabric does your baby's next garment need?
Tell us your baby's age, the season and how the garment will be used. We can guide your handmade baby clothing commission towards a suitable fabric and fit.
Fine cotton and soft linen can be good options. Also consider thickness, finish and layers, without assuming that fibre alone determines comfort.
Use several thin layers instead of a single garment: a fine cotton bodysuit beneath a lightweight knit lets you adjust warmth as the day changes.
By checking the composition on the label, making sure there are no rough seams or stiff labels inside, and washing the garment once before first use.
Because its fibre is finer than conventional wool, which greatly reduces the itchy feeling, although in baby garments I usually blend it with a low proportion of cotton to keep it soft against the skin.
As Patricia Rojas, the atelier's founder, likes to say: the best fabric for a baby is the one you don't notice is there.
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