How to Lengthen a Dress That's Too Short

If letting out is the question I get most about width, lengthening is the one I get most about length. "I found it on sale, I love it, but it hits two inches above the knee and I wanted it midi." The answer, as almost always in this craft, is "it depends."

Lengthening a dress is, generally, harder than shortening it. When you make a hem shorter, there's extra fabric left over. When you want to lengthen it, that extra fabric has to come from somewhere, and it doesn't always exist.

"Shortening a dress is a decision. Lengthening it is, almost always, a negotiation with whatever fabric is left."

The first thing to check: the original hem

Before ruling out the idea, I always check how much fabric is hidden inside the hem itself. Many dresses, especially mid-range and high-end ones, leave several centimeters folded inward that aren't visible at a glance. Sometimes those centimeters are exactly what's missing.

When there isn't enough allowance

If the hem doesn't give enough, there are other options, though each one changes the garment somewhat:

• Adding a ruffle or a matching fabric band at the bottom, as a design choice rather than a patch
• Combining a complementary fabric in a similar tone or an intentional contrast
• Adding an asymmetric hem that disguises the length difference between panels
• In layered dresses, lengthening only the inner or outer layer depending on the effect you want

None of these solutions is "invisible" in the strict sense, but done well they can look natural enough to seem like part of the original design.

"When there's no fabric to add without it showing, I'd rather turn the alteration into a design detail than hide it badly."

The fabric decides whether it's a good idea

Some fabrics lend themselves to this kind of work better than others. A plain dress in flat fabric allows a band to be added quite discreetly. A complex print, pleating, or embroidery makes it almost impossible to match the new fabric to the original, and in that case I usually recommend embracing the difference rather than trying to hide it.

Why it's worth asking before giving up on the dress

Many people assume a dress that's too short can't be fixed, when it actually depends a lot on the hem, the fabric, and the original design. Before leaving it in the closet or returning it, a professional opinion is always worth getting.

If you have a dress you love but it's too short, you can contact Atelier Yvicor. I'll take a look and tell you honestly what your options are.

"You can't always lengthen a dress without it showing. But you can almost always lengthen it without it showing badly."

— Patricia Rojas